Salt Mining at Volterra – Le Saline di Volterra

The village of Saline, today a small hamlet a few kilometres from Volterra, takes its name from salt mining, a practice known in this area since ancient times. The Etruscans, the indigenous people of Tuscany who gave this region its unmistakable character, were already making use of the natural brine springs in this valley.

Etruscans, Romans and all who followed through the Middle Ages continued the tradition: salt was transported along the so-called Via del Sale (Salt Road) to distant territories and countries, a precious commodity that in antiquity was often worth as much as gold.

The Grand Duke of Tuscany later had one of Italy’s first industrial facilities built here. The complex was remarkably forward-thinking for its time: it included a nursery and a school, a medical station and even a maternity ward. Women working in the factory could return to work immediately after maternity leave. An astonishingly progressive arrangement for the era.

Since salt was subject to a state tax for a long period, cigarettes were also manufactured in the factory for a time. Tobacco was brought from the factory in Lucca to Saline, where the MS brand (Monopolio di Stato, meaning State Monopoly) was rolled and packaged.

Quinine was also produced here, a medicine used to treat malaria. This may come as a surprise, but the area around Saline was indeed a malaria zone until the 1950s. At the time, the tablets cost between a third and half of a worker’s daily wage. Factory employees received them free of charge, along with all other medicines.

The most striking building in the complex was designed by the architect Pier Luigi Nervi (1891–1979), one of the most important architects of the twentieth century, whose works around the world secured him a lasting place in the history of modern architecture. His great hall, famous for its spectacular “salt waterfall”, a cascading wall of salt crystals, now hosts theatre performances and concerts.

In 2014, the saltworks were acquired by the Locatelli family, who have been packaging sea salt near Bergamo since 1985. Since then, production has expanded, the site has been opened to visitors, and a range of beers, with and without salt, are now brewed on the premises.

The salt from Volterra is considered the purest in Italy, with a purity level of 99.99%.

Practical information for visitors: Guided tours are available in English and German and cost €7 (as of 2026), or €15 with a beer tasting. Advance booking is required. 🌐 www.locatellisaline.it (website available in Italian and English)