Palio di Buti – a traditional event to see in Tuscany

But what exactly is a Palio?
A palio is a traditional competition between different districts of a town or village, known as contrade. In most cases it involves a horse race, but its meaning goes far beyond sport. A palio represents identity, belonging, pride, and centuries-old tradition. Each contrada has its own colors, symbols, and a strong community spirit. The prize is the “Cencio” — a painted banner created each year by a different artist — which becomes a symbol of honor and victory.

In Buti there are seven contrade, each linked to a local church: Ascensione, La Croce, Pievania, San Francesco, San Michele, San Rocco, and San Nicolao.

Historically, the Palio di Buti in its current form is relatively recent. As early as the 17th century, animals were blessed on the feast day of Saint Antonio Abate. At the end of the day, local horse owners would organize a race — a spontaneous competition that grew out of a religious tradition.

Since 1961, the Palio has been held in its present structure. The contrade no longer use local horses; instead, they hire professional horses and jockeys, choosing the best they can afford. This has made the competition even more intense and highly competitive.

The celebrations begin two weeks before race day with an official dinner attended by the presidents of the contrade. On the following Sunday, after the 11 a.m. Mass, the contrada that won the previous year carries the Cencio to the church, and the starting positions are drawn.

From that moment on, the village enters a period filled with religious ceremonies and festive gatherings. Every evening, after Mass in each contrada’s church, large communal dinners take place. There is almost a friendly rivalry over who prepares the richest and most memorable meal. The star dish is trippa (tripe), a traditional Tuscan specialty that is particularly loved in the area.

On the evening before the Palio, all contrade celebrate together in the village’s main square.

There are four races in total, each with three horses:

• In the first and second races, three contrade compete in each heat.
• In the third race, the seventh contrada — known as the “Signorino” — competes against the two second-place finishers from the first two heats. The term “Signorino” refers to the advantageous position this contrada holds, which often gives it strong chances of winning.
• In the fourth and final race, the winners of the previous heats compete for the Palio.