Garfagnana – A somewhat different Tuscany

Garfagnana is the hilly to mountainous area to the north of Lucca.

The valley has a long history: artefacts and excavations provide evidence of the presence of humans since the Palaeolithic period (from around 2 million to around 9,000 BC). There is evidence of settlements in the Bronze Age.

Etruscan outposts certainly arrived here, but it was the Ligurians – Apuans who settled here around 300 BC.
They were an association of Ligurian tribes who lived in what are now the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines and the Apuan Alps.
The Garfagnana was a passageway and link to the northern Po Valley and was subject to political and administrative divisions for centuries after the Roman Empire, which are still evident today.

The rocche, fortresses and castles that characterise the area are a reminder of the past, when the Lucchesi, Fiorentini and Estensi transformed the Serchio Valley into an “international” crossroads: Barga was part of the Medici dominion, the Estensi family had Castelnuovo and much of Garfagnana and Lucca had Castiglione, Gallicano, Minucciano and the “Tre Terre”.
The “wars for Garfagnana” were fought between Lucchesi and Estensi with sieges, devastation and plundering.
The Pope even had to intervene to resolve the disputes between the Fiorentini and Lucchesi over the Serchio.

Today a somewhat sleepy area, far away from (mass) tourism, the region offers peace and nature. In addition, as in the whole of Tuscany, there are many small medieval villages and towns that can be explored. There is a lot to see and do.

I love this area very much and offer various holiday rentals here. Anyone who follows me on my Facebook page or Instagram (both Tuscany Exclusive) knows that I am in the Garfagnana almost every weekend and get a little insight with photos around the year in the stories.

Let me put together a few sightseeing and leisure options.

Depending on where you live in Garfagnana, it takes between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours to get to the sea.
However, there are many alternative places to swim here:
Many rivers are great for swimming and you can often find very romantic spots where you are completely alone. There are various lakes where you can swim and often go fishing. (Please enquire whether you need a fishing licence)

The largest of the reservoirs is the Lago di Vagli (there are many leisure activities on offer there, such as the opportunity to whizz down the mountain on a steel cable). The Lago di Gramolazzo (Minucciano) is also great because you can lie on the beach, hire pedalos, barbecue or use the sports equipment next to the lake.
Vicaglia (Sillano) is the highest reservoir and there is a very easy circular walk.
Isola Santa (Careggine) is along the road from Castelnuovo to Camaiore (sea) and here too you can walk part of the way around the lake or have a coffee in the old village; in Villa (Pieve Fosciana) there is another small reservoir for swimming and fishing
A little further down the valley are the lakes Trombacco (Fabbriche di Vergemoli) and Gioviano (Borgo a Mozzano).

Castles:

There are also castles, but these are actually in the Lunigiana in the province of Massa and Carrara and therefore just outside Garfagnana, which belongs to the province of Lucca.
The Fortezza di Verrucole (San Romano) is particularly worth a visit with children. It has been converted into a small museum in recent years and you can see what life was like there in the past.
In Castelnuovo, the Fortezza di Mont’Alfonso and the Rocca Ariostea are well worth a visit.
There is also the Rocca di Castiglione (Castiglione di Garfagnana) and the Rocca Estense (Camporgiano).

Adventure:
The large stalactite cave, “Grotta del vento” offers one, two and three hour tours.
There are almost endless hiking trails on the two mountain ranges of the Apuan Alps and the Apennines. You can walk alone or book guided tours. Road cyclists train here and mountain bikers have plenty of options. Here are a few ideas: Garfagnana by bike
Courses for paragliding or climbing, rafting or excursions by quad bike, guided horse riding tours and various climbing parks are just some of the activities on offer. Sports enthusiasts will get their money’s worth here.

And let’s not forget that there is also good Tuscan cuisine here. Down-to-earth as Tuscan cuisine is, but always with good ingredients.
There are of course also various nature parks (Campocatino, Orecchiella, Orrido di Botri etc.) museums and hermit churches (Eremo di Colomini, Eremo di San Viviano, Pieve di San Cassiano di Controne) and much more.

The towns of Garfagnana:

Camporgiano
has an ancient fortress in the centre that overlooks the river Serchio and the valley.
The neighbourhoods are: Poggio, Sillicano, Casciana, Filicaia, Casatico, Cascianella, Roccalberti, Vitoio, Puglianella

Careggine
Just below Mount Sumbra, this village has a long history. It was first mentioned in the year 1000. The Pieve and part of the village are still surrounded by the town walls today.
Neighbourhoods: Capanne, Isola santa , Capriccio

Castelnuovo Garfagnana
The ‘capital’ of Garfagnana. Here you can find everything you need, there is a hospital and theatre. Many local festivals take place here. The Rocca Ariostesca and the cathedral are well worth a visit.
Districts: Cerretoli, Colle, Rontano, Grananella, Antisciana, Monterotondo, Palleroso

Pieve Fosciana
lies directly next to Castelnuovo and takes its name from the 8th century pieve.
Districts: Bargecchia, Pontardeto, Pontecosi, Silico,

Castiglione Garfagnana
an ancient fortress that is still completely preserved today.
Districts: Cerageto, Chiozza, Filippe, Casone, Isola, Campori, Mozzanella

Fosciandora
is still like it was in the Middle Ages with the castle, the church and the tower.
The neighbourhoods are: Ceserana, La Villa, Lupinaia, Riana, Treppignana.

Gallicano
is the first village in the Garfagnana when travelling up from Lucca.
Districts: Trassilico, Fiattone, Perpoli, Cardoso, Bolognana

Giuncugnano
the highest municipality in Garfagnana is situated at just under 900 metres above sea level.
The districts: Magliano, Ponteccio, Gragnana, Varliano, Capoli

Minucciano
on the border between Garfagnana and Lunigiana, it separates the Serchio and Magra rivers. The highest mountain in the Apuan Alps is located here, Monte Pisano
Districts: Gorfigliano, Gramolazzo, Castagnola, Agliano, Pieve, Metra, Albiano, Pugliano and the abandoned village of Bergiola

Molazzana
on the right bank of the river Serchio just below the mountain Pania della Croce, also known as the Queen of the Apuane.
Villages: Brucciano, Cascio, Eglio, Sassi

Piazza al Serchio
lies between two branches of the river Serchio. In one neighbourhood is the medieval bridge of San Michele with the village behind it.
Other neighbourhoods: Borsigliana, Sant’Anastasio, San Donnino, Livignano, Cogna

San Romano
San Romano is beautifully situated and has a view over the open valley and the Apuan Alps. Here is the Fortezza delle Veruccole and also the Parco dell’Orecchiella
Districts: Vibbiana, Orzaglia, Caprignana, Naggio, Silliicagnana, Villetta, Verrucole

Sillano
On the border between Tuscany and Emilia, the village is located near Mount Prado, which at 2054 metres is the highest mountain in Tuscany. It is famous for its old chestnut trees and the production of chestnut flour.
Districts: Brica, Villa Soraggio, Metello, Dalli Sopra, Dalli Sotto, Camporanda, Capanne

Vagli
on the river of the Tambura, Sumbra and Roccandagia mountains in the heart of the Apuan Alps, the town is dominated by the largest reservoir in Garfagnana. The lake is famous because the village of Fabbriche di Careggine is located in the front part directly below the dam wall, and thus in the area of Careggine, at a depth of 90 metres. Until 1992, the lake was emptied every 10 years to check the dam wall.
The only source of income for the population is marble quarrying with some marble varieties that are unique in the world.
The old pastoral village of Campocatino is well worth a visit
Districts: Vagli Sotto, Vagli Sopra and Roggio

Fabbriche di Vergemoli
is located in the lower part of Garfagnana, close to Lucca at the foot of the mountains Pania della Croce, Monte Forato and Pania Secca.
The stalactite cave ‘Grotta del Vento’ and the monastery ‘Eremo di Calomini’ are located here
Districts: Gragliana, Fornovalasco, Campolemisi, san Pellegrinetto, Calomini, Vallico Sopra, Vallico Sotto, Vergemoli

Villa Collemandina
Before the 11th century, this area belonged to the Longobard Rolandinghi family, who built Villa Colimundinga as their residence, a name that changed over the centuries to Collemandina.
Districts: Corfino, Sassorosso

Not quite Garfagnana but in the Mediavalle but still worth a visit: Cune, Barga, Coreglia Antelminelli or Bagni di Lucca